Electronic match. Electrical diagrams for free

Imagine a match that, after being struck on a box, flares up, but does not light up. What good is such a match? It is useful in theatrical productions and can be given to children (who should not play with fire). An electronic match is just such a device because you have to strike the box and only then will it “ignite.” To do this, the device contains (on a match) and a hidden magnet (inside the box). In Fig. Figure 5.17 shows the block of our match.

The compiled project code (along with the MAKEFILE file) can be downloaded from the link: www.avrgenius.com/tinyavrl.

The clock frequency is 1.6 MHz. The main infinite loop of the program is shown in Listing 5.5. If the mode variable is on, then the system generates

pseudo-random variable l'fsr (using a 32-bit shift register LFSR with taps from the 32nd, 31st, 29th and first bits). This value is written to the temp variable (to save the latest LFSR state) and the temp value is output to PORTB. The system delay also depends on temp and therefore it is also pseudo-random.

ί=1;//3το is made to ignore all interrupts before this if (mode==ON)

lfsr = (lfsr » 1) 74 (-(lfsr Sc lu) Sc OxdOOOOOOlu);

/* taps 32 31 29 1 */ temp = (unsigned char) lfsr;

temp = (unsigned char)

Delay_loop_2 (temp "7) ;

The value of the mode variable is set to off globally. The main program sets the variable i to 1. When a match is struck on the box, a voltage pulse occurs in the coil, which interrupts the processor, and the pcinto interrupt routine is executed. In the code for this procedure, the value of mode is set to on, and the gimsk and pcmsk masks are set to oxoo using the interrupt routine (Listing 5.6). After returning to the main program, the LFSR code is executed in an endless loop, which lights up the LED randomly.

ISR (PCINTO_vect)

The rest of the code is various initializations that set values ​​for the masks and variables used in the program.

Device operation

To use a match you need to have a special box with a hidden magnet. Magnet polarity (which pole of the magnet faces outward) is also important. The ionistor in the match must first be charged. For this we use two AA size batteries connected in series. After connecting the batteries to the ionizer, it may take some time to fully charge it. After charging the ionistor (this can be checked by measuring the voltage on it, which for normal operation of the match must be at least 2 V), you can strike the match on the box. As you might guess, it is not necessary to “physically” strike a match on the box. If you quickly wave a match near the box, a surge of voltage will appear in the coil and the device will fire. If you are unable to get the match to work properly, watch the video at: www.avrgenius.com/tinyavrl.

They say that you can’t save much on matches, and yet... A simple and practical electronic match, the description of which we bring to the attention of readers, will save you from the need to constantly ensure that matchboxes do not remain empty.

The “match” works as follows. The electricity accumulated by capacitor C1 (see circuit diagram) from the 220 V network is converted into a spark, which ignites the gas in the kitchen stove burner. The charging time of C1 to the amplitude value of the mains voltage is 2-3 s. and only 0.1 s is enough to discharge it.

Structurally, the “match” is made in the form of a cylinder consisting of two mats (see figure). Radioelements are placed inside one, the other protects the ends of the spark gap from accidental short circuit, otherwise a “match” connected to the network immediately disables the diode VD1, which protects against shock from the discharge of capacitor C1 (when touching the current collectors of a plug removed from the power socket), since With respect to the polarity of the voltage, the diode in it is switched in the opposite direction.

The “match” is assembled from any available materials. Plastic shampoo bottles 100 mm long were used as a composite body. The dimensions of the parts are selected according to their dimensions.

Two holes are drilled in the bottom of the case for current collectors from a standard power plug, the distance between which is calculated for the corresponding socket. Six more 01 mm holes are made on the side - two each with a pitch of 120 * - for attaching the capacitor.

Next, a circuit board is made from foiled fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1...1.5 mm. The foil is cut with a knife into 4 segments (see Fig. 1. To which a diode and a resistor are soldered, as well as multi-core insulated wires ISO mm long for connection to the capacitor. The board is attached to the inside of the case using current collectors and nuts.

The spark gap is made from 02.5 mm welding electrodes. Vinyl chloride tubes are put on them and inserted into the holes of a wooden holder. At one end, the electrodes of the spark gap are sharpened with a file, and at the other they are soldered to the terminals of the capacitor. Moreover, the sections of the electrodes intended for soldering are pre-wrapped with 00.2 mm tinned copper wire.

Using electrical tape, three brackets made of 01 mm copper wire are secured to the capacitor body in increments of 120*, with a “reserve” in length. The wires coming from the board are soldered to the capacitor, and then, threading the ends of the brackets into the holes on the side of the case, the capacitor is inserted into it along with the spark gap and half the length of the wooden holder. A layer of Moment glue is first applied to this area to secure the holder in the body. In addition, the terminals of the brackets are bent along it from the outside, thereby fixing the “insides” of the structure. Their excess is cut to length, and the remaining ends of the staples are glued to the body or wrapped with electrical tape.

A protective cap is placed on the other half of the electrode holder, located outside the housing.

The “match” can be constantly plugged into a power outlet, so it is always ready for use. To light a gas stove burner, remove the “match” from the socket, remove the protective cap, bring it to the burner, open the gas and squeeze the spark gap until the sharpened ends of the electrodes close - a spark appears. When the spark gap is released, the elastic electrodes return to their original position. Put on the protective cap, and the “match” is reinserted into the power outlet until next time.

With prolonged use, the surface of the electrodes becomes “knocked out” over time. Therefore, it is periodically necessary to clean the places of their mutual contact with a file so that the ends of the spark gap are always sharpened to concentrate the discharge energy of the capacitor in a narrow part.

The diode can be replaced with any other one with similar parameters.

This can roughly be called an electric lighter used to ignite gas in the burners of gas stoves. A very convenient and safer device in terms of fire protection than household matches used for this purpose. In principle, you can buy an electric lighter - if, of course, it ends up in a hardware store. But you can make it yourself, which is more interesting from a technical point of view, and you will also need few radio components.

Below we describe two options for a homemade electronic “match” - powered from an electric lighting network and from one small-sized battery D-0.25. In both options, reliable ignition of gas is carried out by an electric spark created by a short current pulse with a voltage of 8...10 kV. This is achieved by appropriate conversion and increasing the voltage of the power source.

The circuit diagram and design of a network lighter are shown in Fig. 1.

Fig.1

The lighter consists of two units connected to each other by a flexible two-wire cord: an adapter plug with capacitors C1, C2 and resistors R1 R2 inside and a voltage converter with a spark gap. This design solution provides it with electrical safety and a relatively small mass of the part that is held in the hand when igniting the gas.

How does the device work overall? Capacitors C1 and C2 act as elements that limit the current consumed by the lighter to 3...4 mA. While the SB1 button is not pressed, the lighter does not consume current. When the contacts of the button are closed, the diodes VD1, VD2 rectify the alternating voltage of the network, and the rectified current pulses charge the capacitor C3. Over several periods of mains voltage, this capacitor is charged to the opening voltage of the dinistor VS1 (for KN102Zh - about 120 V). Now the capacitor quickly discharges through the low resistance of the open dinistor and the primary winding of the step-up transformer T1. In this case, a short current pulse appears in the circuit, the value of which reaches several amperes.

As a result, a high voltage pulse appears on the secondary winding of the transformer and an electric spark appears between the electrodes of the E1 spark gap, which ignites the gas. And so - 5-10 times per second, i.e. with a frequency of 5...10 Hz.

Electrical safety is ensured by the fact that if the insulation is broken and one of the wires connecting the adapter plug to the converter is touched by hand, the current in this circuit will be limited by one of the capacitors C1 or C2 and will not exceed 7 mA. A short circuit between the connecting wires will also not lead to any dangerous consequences. In addition, the arrester is galvanically isolated from the network and is also safe in this sense. Capacitors C1, C2, the rated voltage of which must be at least 400 V, and the resistors R1, R2 shunting them are mounted in an adapter plug housing, which can be made of sheet insulating material (polystyrene, plexiglass) or a plastic box of supply sizes can be used for this. The distance between the centers of the pins that connect it to a standard power socket should be 20 mm.

The rectifier diodes, capacitor C3, dinistor VS1 and transformer T1 are mounted on a printed circuit board measuring 120 x 18 mm, which, after testing, is placed in a plastic handle case of appropriate dimensions. Step-up transformer T1 is made on a 400NN ferrite rod with a diameter of 8 and a length of about 60 mm (a section of the rod intended for the magnetic antenna of a transistor receiver). The rod is wrapped in two layers of insulating tape, on top of which a secondary winding is wound - 1800 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.05-0.08. Winding in bulk, smooth from edge to edge. We must strive to ensure that the serial numbers of overlapping turns in the layers of wire are out of one hundred. The secondary winding along its entire length is wrapped in two layers of insulating tape and 10 turns of PEV-2 0.4-0.6 wire are wound on top of it in one layer - the primary winding.

Diodes KD105B can be replaced with other small-sized ones with a permissible reverse voltage of at least 300 V or diodes D226B, KD205B. Capacitors C1-C3 types BM, MBM; the first two of them must be for a rated voltage of at least 150 V, the third - at least 400 V. The structural basis of the E1 arrester is a piece of metal tube 4 with a length of 100...150 and a diameter of 3...5 mm, at one end of which a metal thin-walled glass 1 with a diameter of 8...10 and a height of 15...20 mm is rigidly fixed (mechanically or by soldering). This glass, with slits in the walls, is one of the electrodes of the E1 arrester. Inside the tube, together with a heat-resistant dielectric 3, for example, a fluoroplastic tube or tape, a thin steel knitting needle 2 is tightly inserted. Its pointed end protrudes from the insulation by 1... 1.5 mm and should be located in the middle of the glass. This is the second, central, electrode of the spark gap.

The discharge gap of the lighter is formed by the end of the central electrode and the wall of the glass - it should be 3...4 mm. On the other side of the tube, the central electrode in insulation should protrude from it by at least 10 mm. The spark gap tube is rigidly fixed in the plastic housing of the converter, after which the spark gap electrodes are connected to the terminals of winding II of the transformer. Soldering areas are reliably insulated with pieces of polyvinyl chloride tube or insulating tape.

If you don’t have a KN102Zh dinistor at your disposal, you can replace it with two or three dinistors of the same series, but with a lower switching voltage. The total opening voltage of such a chain of dinistors should be 120... 150 V. In general, the dinistor can be replaced with its analogue, composed of a low-power thyristor (KU101D, KU101E) and a zener diode, as shown in Fig. 2.

Fig.2

The stabilization voltage of a zener diode or several zener diodes connected in series should be 120...150 V. The diagram of the second version of the electronic “match” is shown in Fig. 3.

Fig.3

Due to the low voltage of battery G1 (D-0.25), it was necessary to apply a two-stage voltage conversion of the power source. In the first such stage, a generator operates on transistors VT1, VT2, assembled according to a multivibrator circuit, loaded onto the primary winding of step-up transformer T1. In this case, an alternating voltage of 50... 60 V is induced on the secondary winding of the transformer, which is rectified by diode VD3 and charges capacitor C4. The second stage of conversion, which includes dinistor VS1 and step-up transformer T2 with spark gap E1 in the secondary winding circuit, works in the same way as a similar unit in a network lighter. Diodes VD1, VD2 form a half-wave rectifier, periodically used to recharge the battery. Capacitor C1 dampens excess network voltage. Plug X1 is installed on the lighter body. The circuit board for this type of lighter is shown in Fig. 4.

Fig.4

The magnetic core of the high-voltage transformer T2 is a ferrite ring of 2000 NM or 2000 NN with an outer diameter of 32 mm. The ring is carefully broken in half, the parts are wrapped in two layers of insulating tape and 1200 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.05-0.08 are wound on each of them. Then the ring is glued with BF-2 or “Moment” glue, the halves of the secondary winding are connected in series, wrapped with two layers of insulating tape and the primary winding is wound on top of it - 8 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.6-0.8 (Fig. 5).

Fig.5

Transformer T1 is made on a ring made of the same ferrite as the magnetic core of transformer T2, but with an outer diameter of 15...20 mm. The manufacturing technology is the same. Its primary winding, which is wound second, contains 25 turns of PEV-2 0.2-0.3 wire, the secondary winding contains 500 turns of PEV-2 0.08-0.1. Transistor VT1 can be KT502A-KT502E, KT361A-KT361D; VT2 - KT503A - KT503E. Diodes VD1 and VD2 - any rectifier with a permissible reverse voltage of at least 300 V. Capacitor C1 - MBM or K73, C2 and C4 - K50-6 or K53-1, C3 - KLS, KM, KD.

The switching voltage of the dinistor used should be 45...50 V. The design of the spark gap is exactly the same as that of a network lighter. Setting up this version of an electronic “match” comes down mainly to a thorough check of the installation, the design as a whole and the selection of resistor R2. This resistor must be of such a value that the lighter operates stably when the voltage of the battery supplying it is from 0.9 to 1.3 V. It is convenient to control the degree of battery discharge by the frequency of sparking in the spark gap. As soon as it drops to 2...3 Hz, this will be a signal that the battery needs to be recharged. In this case, plug X1 of the lighter must be connected to the mains for 6...8 hours.

When using a lighter, its spark gap must be removed from the flame immediately after ignition of the gas - this will extend the life of the spark gap.

It seems that there is nothing cheaper than matches, but they may not be available at the right time, so it’s good to have an electric one on hand that will come to your aid.

In this article, we will look at several master classes, where we will learn how to make an electronic match, moreover, with our own hands, and we will also provide a diagram of the device.

Operating principle of an electronic match

The capacitor stores electrical energy, charging from a household electrical network, and converts it into discharge. From this spark, the gas ignites on the burners of the kitchen gas stove. The capacitor takes up to 3 seconds to charge and discharges in 0.1 seconds.

An electric match is a cylinder that consists of two parts. One part houses the radio elements, the other contains a fuse that protects the spark gap so that an accidental short circuit does not occur.

Otherwise, when connected to the network, the diode, which serves as protection, will instantly burn out. Without this diode, if you touch the current collector plug, the capacitor will be discharged.

Electronic match diagram:

Electronic match manufacturing technology

Materials:

Stages of making a match:

1. Drill a pair of holes in the bottom of the case (to place current collectors) at such a distance that you can connect it to a regular outlet. You need several holes on the side (hole diameter up to 1 mm), in this case six, to mount the capacitor.
2. The board is made by hand using foil fiberglass laminate.
3. Cut the foil into several parts with a knife, solder a resistor, diode, and wires (150 mm each) to them to connect the capacitor.
4. Secure the board inside the housing using nuts and current collectors.
5. The next step is to make a spark gap. To do this, put vinyl chloride tubes on the welding electrodes and insert them into the holes made in the wooden holder.
6. One end of the electrodes in the spark gap should be sharpened very finely using tools. On the other hand, wrap the ends of the electrodes with tinned wire and solder them to the outputs of the capacitor.
7. Three pieces of brackets made of one-millimeter copper wire are fixed to the capacitor body with electrical tape (leave the long ends).
8. Then you should solder the wires that are attached to the board to the ends of the capacitor. Next, insert the staples into the holes made on the sides of the case and place the capacitor and spark gap there (to the middle of the holder).
9. In order to secure the wooden holder, you need to apply glue to this part. On the outside of the case, to fix the internal structure, bend the brackets and insulate them with electrical tape so that you can comfortably pick up the match in your hands.
10. The electrode holder, which is located outside the housing, is covered with a protective cap.

MORE ABOUT: Applique of matches for children on cardboard

Battery operated electronic match

We present to your attention a master class on a very simple way to make an electric match with your own hands; you don’t even need a diagram for it.

To make the device you need to prepare:

• A piece of double copper wire.
• Regular matches.
• Battery.
• Stationery knife, scissors.

Manufacturing technique:

1. Take a piece of double copper wire and divide it into two at one end, but not the entire length, but only a quarter.
2. Expose one wire by 1 cm, the other by 2 cm.
3. Next, separate the core from one wire and the same from the other. Carefully cut off all unnecessary wiring with scissors.
4. Then, use a utility knife to carefully remove the varnish from one and the second wire.
5. Twist these wires together in the middle of a long wire and cut off all excess with scissors.
6. Take regular matches, clean the sulfur from them and crush it to a powder.
7. Pour the powder into a small container and add a couple of drops of water, stir until liquid.
8. After this, take the liquid mass and apply it to the edge of the wire. Cover all thin wires completely and dry.
9. From the other end of the resulting match, also separate the two wires and expose the ends. Connect one of the exposed wires to the battery - its pole, the other - to the minus. A flash will appear on the side where the wires are treated with sulfur.

If you are the kind of person who loves experiments, then these master classes are just for you.

Using simple materials at hand, you can use these tips to make a new, interesting device - an electronic match.

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