The village where you missed. Eo the village where Eugene missed

The village where Eugene missed,
There was a lovely corner;
There's a friend of innocent pleasures
I could bless the sky.
The master's house is secluded,
Protected from the winds by a mountain,
Stood over the river. away
Before him were full of flowers and blossomed
Meadows and fields of gold,
Villages flashed; here and there
The herds roamed the meadows,
And the canopy expanded thick
Huge, neglected garden,
Haven of pensive dryads.

INTERESTING FROM NABOKOV:

Echoes of motifs from Pushkin's famous poem "The Village" (where) Pushkin throws a harsh accusation in the face of depraved landowners. Later, however, Pushkin himself did not disdain the opportunity to beat a serf or make a child for a yard girl.

Pushkin uses his own village memories of 1819 ... But it should be borne in mind that Onegin's estate is located in Arcadia, and not in the Pskov or Tver province

Impenetrable vaults, dense gardens, a large shade of foliage, dense greenery, havens, shelters, dryads are the favorite clichés of French poetry of the 18th century.

BRODSKY:
Since the second chapter was completed in Pushkin's southern exile in Odessa, these are undoubtedly impressions from visits to Mikhailovsky in 1817 (in the summer after graduating from the lyceum) and in 1819 (28 days after a fever - typhoid)

LOTMAN:
Oh Rus! - The first part of the epigraph is borrowed from Horace (Satires, book 2, satire 6)
The double epigraph creates a punning contradiction between the tradition of the conditionally literary image of the village and the idea of a real Russian village. … At the same time, an attitude towards the literary tradition typical of all subsequent chapters is set: by quotation, reminiscence, or in another way, a certain expectation is revived in the mind of the reader, which is not realized in the future, defiantly colliding with extra-literary laws of reality.

The stanza reflected the features of Mikhailovsky's familiar landscape, but Onegin's village is not a copy of any real, well-known area, but an artistic image.

MY INSINUATION:
Reading these lines, you are perplexed: why did Uncle Onegin live and die in the village? Why didn't Pushkin make him an envoy in Spain, an official in the Caucasus or a general in Moscow - why didn't Evgeny go THERE to say goodbye? THAT is how it was possible to describe both Spain and the Caucasus, not to mention Moscow. Give the same "views".
Why the village?

Of course - a tribute to the tradition of the old, "Greco-Latin", and - a demonstrative skimping of the new, "Byronic" (the hero's journey through exotic countries), of course - a comfortable stage, - but something else.

Another thing is that the "village" in EO refers more to the sphere of harmony than the plot. The purpose of the five village heads is to neutralize the burlesque of one, the first. So it was intended from the very beginning. That’s why Pushkin went wild in the first chapter, that’s why he joked so much that from the first lines his hero didn’t go anywhere, but “to the village, to the wilderness, to Saratov”, where there will be nothing of this St. Petersburg, enchanting ...

And with the next five chapters, the poet “neutralized” everything, harmonized - that’s why, in the end, the novel is not too spicy, not too bland, that’s why it’s not about a metropolitan madman, and not about a provincial fool - but about life in general. And all thanks to this "golden section" - 5x1.

I continue to comment on "Eugene Onegin"
WHERE I AM: The first stanza of the second chapter. A stylized description of the countryside where Onegin ended up as a landowner.
TEXT:
The village where Eugene missed,
There was a lovely corner;
There's a friend of innocent pleasures
I could bless the sky.
The master's house is secluded,
Protected from the winds by a mountain,
Stood over the river. away
Before him were full of flowers and blossomed
Meadows and fields of gold,
Villages flashed; here and there
The herds roamed the meadows,
And the canopy expanded thick
Huge, neglected garden,
Haven of pensive dryads.

INTERESTING FROM NABOKOV:

Pushkin uses his own village memories of 1819 ... But it should be borne in mind that Onegin's estate is located in Arcadia, and not in the Pskov or Tver province

Impenetrable vaults, dense gardens, a large shade of foliage, dense greenery, havens, shelters, dryads are the favorite clichés of French poetry of the 18th century.

The stanza reflected the features of Mikhailovsky's familiar landscape, but Onegin's village is not a copy of any real, well-known area, but an artistic image.

Hello dear.
Shall we continue Eugene Onegin with you? You don't mind, I hope? :-))) Last time we finished here:
Let's start part 2. Interesting :-))
So let's start with the epigraph. As I said in the analysis of the first part, Pushikin has a lot of them in his works. Each chapter has its own. And here it is very funny, because the epigraph of part 2 is a pun. And everyone can interpret it in their own way. Sounds like
"Orus!.." And translation below " Oh Rus!". But the bottom line is that this is from Horace and can be translated from Latin as " Oh village!"Funny, right? :-)

Well, let's go directly to the text.

The venerable castle was built,
How castles should be built:
Superbly durable and calm
In the taste of smart antiquity.
Everywhere high chambers,
In the living room damask wallpaper,
Kings portraits on the walls,
And stoves in colorful tiles.
All this is now dilapidated,
I don't really know why;
Yes, but my friend
There was very little need
Then that he yawned equally
Among fashionable and ancient halls.

Well, everything seems to be clear so far, with the exception of a few points. Although I want you to pay attention to the skill of Alexander Sergeevich. With a few lines, he plunges us into a bored state, here is a real master :-)

So what is unclear here. First of all, they are dryads. I don't know why exactly they are brooding here, but maybe it's directly related to the village spleen. In general, this was the name of the nymphs, patronesses of trees. He believes that each tree has its own nymph, almost like a guardian angel for people. There are generally many varieties of them, but they are all united by the common name of the dryad.

The decor of the house is clearly outdated and not at all fashionable - not what Eugene is used to. However, as we will see later, this does not really bother him. Tiles are a kind of tile of that time. Ceramic tiles, which, first of all, lined the oven. They gained particular popularity in our country under Peter the Great, and you can observe stoves with tiles in the houses of his confidants - at least in the Menshikov Palace in St. Petersburg. But if in the first half of the 18th century blue tiles, that is, cobalt tiles, were fashionable, then in the uncle's village house these tiles are colorful. That is, we are dealing, most likely, with enamel tiles. Although whatever one may say, by the time of our story they have long gone out of everyday use. Such a retrograde. as well as damask wallpaper, that is, fabric wallpaper. And it certainly wasn't expensive silk or velour, linen or thick wool. In those years, paper wallpaper only appeared, and, accordingly, it was extremely popular and expensive. However, the fashion for shtof will return. Only expensive and very high quality.

He settled in that peace,
Where is the village old-timer
For forty years I quarreled with the housekeeper,
He looked out the window and crushed flies.
Everything was simple: the floor is oak,
Two wardrobes, a table, a downy sofa,
Not a speck of ink anywhere.
Onegin opened the cupboards;
In one I found an expense notebook,
In another liquor a whole system,
Jugs of apple water
And the eighth year calendar:
An old man with a lot to do
Haven't looked at other books.

In general, everything is Spartan .... A notebook of expenses, liqueurs, among which the famous "Erofeich" and apple water should have been among them. By the way, an extremely pleasant and healthy drink. The recipe is simple - grate an apple, pour it with a liter of water, put it in the refrigerator for an hour, and then filter it. Simple and delicious :-)

Alone among his possessions,
Just to pass the time
First conceived our Eugene
Establish a new order.
In his wilderness, the desert sage,
Yarem he is an old corvée
I replaced the quitrent with a light one;
And the slave blessed fate.
But in his corner pouted,
Seeing in this terrible harm,
His prudent neighbor;
The other smiled slyly,
And in a voice everyone decided so,
That he is the most dangerous eccentric.

Since we remember that Eugene was reputed and considered himself a great economist, he decided to start his economic transformations from his own, more precisely inherited possessions. In fact, of course, nothing revolutionary, but .... all the same, all the same. Without going into theoretical jungle, here the trick was most likely that the quitrent, that is, the per capita rent from each dependent peasant, was quite high. As a result, in order to pay this quitrent, the peasants lived almost starving. Yevgeny replaced all this with corvée, and an easy one at that. That is, working out one's duties to the landowner by working on his land. If easy, then 2-3 days a week the peasant worked for the master and gave him the results of his labor, the rest for himself.

Funny reaction from neighbors. One saw terrible harm, for he clearly did not want to give free rein and indulgence to the peasants, quite reasonably believing that in this case he would suffer losses. The second one smiled slyly, realizing that if Onegin does not take care of the household himself, or at least does not appoint a competent and honest manager, then soon he will not have enough money from corvée.

At first everyone went to him;
But since from the back porch
usually served
Him don stallion,
Only along the main road
They will hear them at home, -
Offended by such an act,
All friendship ended with him.
“Our neighbor is ignorant; crazy;
He is a pharmacist; he drinks one
A glass of red wine;
He does not fit the ladies' hands;
All yes yes no; won't say yes
Or no, sir. That was the general voice.

Eugene, who until recently was in the very center of metropolitan life, is definitely bored with the society of his provincial neighbors. There is nothing to talk about with him, and just, apparently, the right people. Therefore, as soon as he hears their approach, he immediately leaves the estate.
Funny opinion about Eugene. For some reason, neighbors consider him an ignoramus, although their education is hardly different from their own. Moreover, I think Madame and Musya Abbot invested in Onegin an order of magnitude more knowledge and theory. However, they further explain why he is an ignoramus. Firstly, he is a formazon, that is, a freethinker, and perhaps even a freemason, which was extremely undesirable and even dangerous for the people of the Catherine's Epoch. Drinks glasses of wine, and not the tincture loved by all the locals. He does not kiss the lady's hand, because it is not fashionable, and indeed retrograde. And he doesn’t use word words in his speech, that is, he doesn’t add c to some words, which means he’s extremely ill-mannered.

In reality, there is a direct conflict between the metropolitan thing and the province. Just like now.

And finally, a few words should be said about the Don stallion. The Don breed is one of the most distinctive in Russia, and was very common in the 19th century. albeit not very beautiful, and often simply unsightly, the horse was miraculously hardy, very unpretentious, distinguished by good health and wonderful speed. so get in the saddle, and ... "they won't catch up with us" (c) :-)))
To be continued...

The village where Eugene missed,

There was a lovely corner;

There's a friend of innocent pleasures

I could bless the sky.

A.S. Pushkin "Eugene Onegin"

Gray snow covers the lawns and spreads on the asphalt in dirty puddles. Gray houses and drainpipes evoke melancholy. At such moments, you especially want to find yourself somewhere among the snow sparkling under the sun, so that clean, prickly, frosty air quietly flows into your lungs, and instead of stone facades, you are surrounded by firs in white hats.

Almost seven hundred kilometers separate Moscow from - the estate of Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin in the Pskov region. Even this, frankly, not the coldest winter, the thermometer here often dropped below 30 degrees, and the frost turned into a crackling category - when trees begin to crack in the forest, and snow crunches loudly underfoot. In the white field, a chain of hare tracks ran like a dotted line. The sun shines through the dark green firs with a bright yellow pancake. The air is like breathing liquid glass.

This is a different world, and it seems that time flows more slowly. Think differently - clearer, or something. Or maybe the whole point is that Pushkin lived and worked here?! And then you begin to look differently at these endless snow-covered fields and copses. On centuries-old spruces and oaks, which still remember Alexander Sergeevich. Here Pushkin saw Anna Kern and shone brilliant lines on her: "I remember a wonderful moment ...". And from these windows you can see a huge oak tree, which "At the seashore there is a green oak; A golden chain on that oak ...".

About a hundred works were created by the poet in Mikhailovsky. Here he worked on the poems "Gypsies" and "Count Nulin", wrote the chapters of the novel "Arap of Peter the Great" and the central chapters of "Eugene Onegin", worked on autobiographical notes and the drama "Boris Godunov", pondered "Little Tragedies" ...

Hannibal estates

The great-grandfather of Alexander Sergeevich, Abram Petrovich Gannibal (by the way, who bore the name Petrov until the age of 30), received several settlements in the St. Petersburg province and in the Pskov region as a gift from Empress Elizabeth Petrovna in the middle of the 18th century. After his death in 1781, the estates went to the children. The eldest son Ivan Abramovich, the hero of the sea battle with the Turks in 1770, got the Suyda manor, which is 40 versts from St. Petersburg; to the second son, Pyotr Abramovich, also a retired general, whose real passion in his declining years was the preparation of strong tinctures, the village of Petrovskoye in the Pskov region; The poet's grandfather, Osip Abramovich, inherited the Mikhailovskoye estate, which is next to Petrovsky. After the death of Osip Abramovich in 1807, Mikhailovsky was owned by his daughter Nadezhda Gannibal, the poet's mother. For almost 20 years, in the period from 1817 to 1836, Alexander Sergeevich repeatedly visited Mikhailovsky. With the death of Nadezhda Osipovna, Mikhailovsky was owned by Pushkin, and later the estate belonged to his children - Alexander, Grigory, Maria and Natalia.

In 1899, on the centenary of the poet's birth, at the initiative of the Russian public, Mikhailovskoye was bought from the poet's heirs into state ownership in order to create a museum. In 1911, a museum and a tiny pension for elderly writers were opened here.

During the years of the Civil War, Mikhailovskoye, Trigorskoye, Petrovskoye and other estates belonging to the descendants of the Hannibals and friends of the Pushkins perished in the fire. In 1937, on the centenary of the death of the poet, the house-museum in Mikhailovsky was restored, but World War II did not spare the estate. Immediately after the war, the restoration of the estate and the Svyatogorsk monastery began. In 1962, Trigorskoe, the estate of Pushkin's friends Osipov-Vulf, was transformed, and in 1977, Petrovskoye. In 1995, Mikhailovskoye received the status of the State Memorial Historical, Literary and Natural Landscape Museum-Reserve of A.S. Pushkin.

Today, the museum-reserve includes the estates of Mikhailovskoye, Trigorskoye and Petrovskoye, the Svyatogorsky Holy Dormition Monastery with the grave of A.S. Pushkin and the necropolis of the Hannibals-Pushkins, ancient settlements, lakes, the floodplain of the Sorot River and some other objects.

Mikhailovskoe

It is quiet in Mikhailovsky in winter. An apple orchard and a glade are covered with a white shroud, where on June 6, the poet's birthday, a poetry festival is held annually. Apple trees in the snow. Curly Pushkin, covered with a snow blanket, greets guests. Like many years ago, a spruce alley leads to the estate, there is also a humpbacked bridge, an old oak tree, on which a huge chain once hung and a small wooden house for the "learned cat". The lakes are covered with ice. Under the snow lies an island of solitude, on which Alexander Sergeevich was hiding from the excessive attention of the guests, whom, according to his memoirs, he did not really like.

From the estate on the bank of the river, a windmill is perfectly visible, built back in the days of Semyon Geychenko, the legendary director of the museum, who devoted 45 years of his life to him. He was born in 1903 in Peterhof in the family of a commander of a cavalry grenadier regiment, and in 1925 he received a university education in St. Petersburg. In the early days of the Great Patriotic War, he was arrested for "kitchen talk about life". Then the war, a severe wound - Semyon Stepanovich lost his left arm. In 1945, Geichenko was appointed director of the Mikhailovskoye Museum, where his first office, as well as his home, was a dugout. Through the efforts of this man, the memorial museum-reserve has become one of the most famous and beloved museums in Russia.

Excursion program

Excursion service includes visits to three estates with a tour of buildings and parks. Tourists get acquainted with the museum "Pushkinskaya village", and with a mill in Bugrovo, and with the Svyatogorsk monastery. In recent years, two more objects have become popular: the forester's house, in which Sergei Dovlatov rented a room when he worked here as a guide, and the Argus private bird nursery.

Dovlatov described the house of a local forester as follows: “Mikhal Ivanych’s house made a terrible impression. Against the background of clouds, a lopsided antenna was black. The roof had collapsed in places, exposing uneven dark beams. The walls were carelessly upholstered with plywood. ".

Despite such a terrible description, the owner of the house - and the prototype of Mikhail Ivanovich was called Ivan - until his last days was terribly proud that he got into the pages of the story "Reserve". Now the house has been restored and does not really correspond to the Dovlatov's description.

Conceived as a poultry yard, the poultry house has turned into a real zoo, which has more than a hundred different species of animals. In addition to birds - pheasants, chickens, geese, ostriches and other birds - there are roe deer, elk, sheep, raccoon, bear, wolf and even such a rare animal for central Russia as a cougar.

In winter, in the village of Bugrovo, theatrical performances take place: Christmas, Christmas festivities and Maslenitsa. For those who wish - sleigh rides. Particular attention is paid to programs for children: here they are taught to make amulets from straw, weave belts, show how a real mill works, and a real miller covered in flour directs the whole action. The whole process takes place in front of tourists, and at the exit, each of the spectators receives a bag of flour as a keepsake.

In Bugrovo there is another small but very nice Museum of Old Post. A postman in a Pushkin-era costume mends goose feathers, teaches visitors how to use them, and cancels stamps. It is interesting that for the needs of writing, not any goose feather was used, but only one feather of a young goose, torn out in the spring from the five extreme feathers of the left wing. The fact is that the "writing mechanism" from the left wing fit better in the right hand. The pen was degreased, hardened in hot sand and sharpened with a special penknife. Incidentally, even now one can write a letter to one's friends from Mikhailovsky with such a pen.

Let's go to the estate

Mikhailovskoye is located seven kilometers from the urban-type settlement of Pushkinskiye Gory, which, in turn, are 670 kilometers from Moscow, 400 from St. Petersburg, and a good hundred kilometers from Pskov. All of the above cities are connected with Pushgori by regular bus service. From Moscow and St. Petersburg to Pskov can also be reached by rail.

The museum-estate is open from 10.00 to 17.00, ticket offices are open until 16.30. Monday and last Tuesday of each month are days off. The entrance ticket costs 80 rubles, for schoolchildren and pensioners a 50% discount.

Each estate has guest houses with rooms equipped with electric stoves. The rooms are equipped with TV, refrigerator, telephone, toilet and shower. Since there is no shop nearby, it is prudent to bring groceries with you.

If the prospect of cooking food in a guest house, where there is a common living room, a refrigerator, a kitchen with a stove and a set of necessary utensils, does not suit you, then it is not far away, just a 30-minute walk through the fabulous winter forest, in the village of Bugrovo there is a tavern "At the Mill" . The name of the dishes in the cafe corresponds to the atmosphere: appetizers "Peasant" and "For vodka" at a price of 100 rubles, cabbage soup "Lapotnye", stewed mushrooms "Russian Soul", trout "Poet's Dream" - from 150 rubles.

The cost of living in guest houses starts from 1.6 thousand rubles for a double room with private facilities on the floor and from 2.7 thousand rubles in the Arina R hotel complex in Bugrovo, in the same room, but with amenities and breakfasts.